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View Full Version : Experiment: elevating my sub............


GreatDane
January 26th, 2002, 23:34
My room layout does''''nt give me many options for sub placement, behind L or R speaker is about it. My B&W 602s3''''s are mounted on 24" Lovan steel stands, centered about 22" from the rear wall. This is as far as I can get away with, because I have an opening on the one wall leading into a kitchen. My Def Tech ProSub 200tl has 4" clearance from the rear wall and 9" from the side wall. For proper level adjustment using a SPL meter, I set the sub level on my receiver at 0 db. and set the gain on the sub at 9 o''''clock( 1/4 ). Knowing that a speakers bass performance can be tweaked by changing the hieght, I tried elevating the sub 6" from the floor, thinking this might "clean up" the bass a bit since the sub still had plenty of power not being used( at 1/4 volume). Now I have bumped up the gain on the sub to about 10 o''''clock ( not checked w/ meter ), and I like what I am hearing.This has worked for me , and was my only "fix" for limited placement options. I was just wondering if anyone has played around with moving a sub UP instead of OUT. wink.gif border=0

jstwong
January 27th, 2002, 01:18
An interesting solution to your problem... How did you elevate the sub <i.e. what is it standing on now>? Speakers in general <including subwoofers> do best when anchored / sitting on a firm / solid surface <that''s why they usually always include carpet spikes>. Just wondering...

GreatDane
January 27th, 2002, 17:45
jstwong,<p> I used a shop made box( 4 sides, no top or bottom ), fabricated from 24 ga. sheet metal.It''s dim. are about half of the sub''s footprint. I also stuffed the box with a pillow. This was just a leftover pc. of junk that I had lying around and had originaly thought of using a cement block,but decided to try this first becuase the metal was black and just looked better. What do you think would be the best thing/ material to use for a "stand" ?<p> Dane

Lex
January 27th, 2002, 21:27
How about adding a bottom to the box, and putting in about 20 pounds of lead shot, then dampen the rest with pillows, speaker dampening material or such. smile.gif border=0 <p>That makes it solid, and less resistant to buzzing. I would guess, eventually, it may make some noise, but then I haven''t seen the box. <p>Lex

jstwong
January 28th, 2002, 15:15
Lex, brings up a great add on. You could just add a bottom and then fill the box with some kind of dense / heavy material which will help to create a more solid foundation. You could go with sand instead of lead as an alternate. But essentially, the goal is to produce a solid, non-reverberating base...

GreatDane
January 28th, 2002, 22:56
......so how about the cement block,is cement a "dead" material?

Masherbrum
January 29th, 2002, 14:24
Why not put a bottom on it sand fill it with water or sand? This should be neutral and one gallon of water is 8 pounds.<p>Masher

jstwong
January 29th, 2002, 15:09
Masher, water would probably work, but I would be very hesitant to put water in a box next to electronics <what a mess if it starts to leak>. Plus, as a long term solution, the water could become stagnant and start to support mold / fungus growth... Hmmm... Could be a natural acoustic deadening material though! smile.gif border=0 <p>A cement block would be workable... Whether used by itself, or put into the box <with sand / shot filled in around it>.

wildgolfer2
January 29th, 2002, 19:09
this is going south real quick.<p>how about a clear square, plexiglass, turn that into a fish tank, put your sub on it???<p>got something to look at while thumping to your fav. cd???<p>and also the fish might enjoy a cool tune or too.<p>just my 2 cents.<p>thanks

GreatDane
January 31st, 2002, 00:29
fish tanks aside, I thought of an idea today ....... I will use 1/8" thick x 1" wide al. bar and bend a ,sort of , stand to elavate it about 7" . The bar will go the length of the sub, underneath, being bolted to the sub with holes in the bars that i will drill and will use the screw- in feet as the bolts to secure the bar to the sub,1 bar per side ( 2 total ). As the bar leaves the sub''s underside, it will angle out at 60 degrees, with a small "foot" at its end. With about 50 cents worth of black spray paint it should look pretty good wink.gif border=0

jstwong
January 31st, 2002, 02:08
Just make sure that the "foot" of the bar is can firmly grip the floor surface, otherwise, I would suspect that "walking" could occur when the sub reproduces low frequencies at high volumes...

GreatDane
February 1st, 2002, 03:52
the foot will be on carpet, so walking should not be a problem......thanks biggthumpup.gif border=0